My 2012 In Review

After a long and thoughtful walk through Fullersburg Woods I have had a chance to reflect on all the events of this past year; and what better time to reflect than the present? I’m astounded at how much has happened in one year, and hope I can give an accurate summary of it all.

January 1st, 2012 found me waking up long before sunrise in my dorm room at the University of Leicester in England. Together with my college friend Erica, we headed to the airport to catch our flight to Dublin, to spend some time in beautiful Ireland and Northern Ireland. From the illuminated manuscripts of the Book of Kells, to a traditional Irish music pub crawl, and finally the stormy coast at the Giant’s Causeway, my visit to Ireland was a memorable one.

Looking goofy at the Giant's Causeway - very windy and rainy

Looking goofy at the Giant’s Causeway – very windy and rainy

But schoolwork was always calling me back to Leicester, and much of January was spent in class or at the library. But I had more international travel to look forward to: a weekend in Madrid, Spain spent exploring the streets with another college friend, Jackie. Less than a week later I was off to Berlin, Germany to visit the many astounding museums, Prussian palaces, the Berlin Wall, and a concentration camp covered in snow. It was an icy cold, but edifying experience in German history.

Brrrrr! is all I can say – at the Brandenburg Gate, Berlin

February and March were stressful, writing essays, choosing a dissertation topic, and applying for a museum internship. Spring Break could not come soon enough, and yet there were still diversions to pass the time; Queen Elizabeth II came to Leicester, plus a visit to the enigmatic Stonehenge, and hiking in the British countryside. The beginning of April marked the beginning of Spring Break, and a chest infection kept me stuck in my room. I hunkered down and began work on my dissertation, waiting for my parents to arrive for their 10 day visit. I enjoyed showing them the best of Leicester, and we explored Oxford, London, and stunning Blenheim Palace together, and celebrating my birthday in style.

May and June were devoted to reading, researching, interviewing and writing my dissertation, which filled most of my days. The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee celebration was a good chance to get away and go camping in Wales with friends, and Sean came all the way from Chicago to visit England for a few days, and even sat in on my Bollywood dance class. Entering into July, it seemed as though time was speeding up, and my dissertation deadline was looming. Before finishing my time at University, I saw the Olympic torch and held it for myself, made a wee trip up to Glasgow, Scotland, and had a farewell night out with my Bollywood dance class in true Bollywood style!

Getting my turn at holding the Olympic Torch!

At the end of July, I turned in my final dissertation and packed up and moved south to Exeter, to start my internship at the Royal Albert Memorial Museum. It was the best museum I could have worked at, with the most entertaining staff, lots of tea and cake, and a giraffe for a mascot. Exeter was beautiful, and I spent my weekends exploring the area, hiking in the rolling hills, and visiting the birthplace of crime writer Agatha Christie. There was time for another camping trip when friends from Leicester came down for a weekend and we piled in the car for the coast. Mom and Dad even made it to Exeter for a weekend, and helped me pack up some of my things for my impending return home. Soon enough the internship was over, and I had to say farewell again.

In mid September my brother got engaged, and soon after he came to meet me in London and we spent a few busy days there before catching a flight to Italy, and spending a few days with my friends Anna and Enrico in Verona. From there it was on into the Dolomite Mountains, then back towards Milan, with a breath-taking train journey through the Alps to boot! Completely exhausted, we returned home to Chicago at the very end of September.

Verona - city of spectacular views! And my former home

Verona – city of spectacular views! And my former home

The first thing I did was visit my grandparents, and family, and much of October was spent reconnecting with old friends. I soon started a holiday job working at a department store, and in my spare time I worked on a very ambitious scrapbook project. Mid November I was hired on as an intern at a children’s museum, working in their office twice a week. Better yet, I received news that I had passed my Masters course with ‘distinction’, and my dissertation got high marks. Unfortunately, my busy schedule prevented me from spending Thanksgiving Day with my relatives in Indiana, but my Grandma Smith and I kept each other company that day. Also unfortunate, our beloved dog Shadow died just a few days before Christmas, but friends and relatives have been a support as we adjust to him being gone.

Catching up with Grandma and Grandpa on Christmas Day

Now, a few days away from the New Year, I can reflect on everything that has happened this year. This little summary serves as much an update as a reminder for myself, and I look forward to attending my graduation ceremonies in Leicester next month, and several important weddings next year. Bring on 2013!

Family comes to Europe

It was brought to my attention that since my transition from the UK back to the US, I have neglected to post anything! I’ve been back home in Chicagoland for 2 weeks now, and enjoying being back. But thinking back just a few weeks ago, my parents and my brother both made the long trip over to the UK (separately) to visit with me before I came home.  Mom and Dad came over to see Exeter (and to help take some of my luggage home, for which I was grateful). They came on the last day of my internship at the Royal Albert Memorial Museum, which in typical fashion at the museum, was celebrated with cake. Over the weekend, my parents and I enjoyed a Devon cream tea together, took a tour of Exeter Cathedral, and enjoyed several wonderful pubs. It was a very quick visit, but convinced Mom and Dad that they will have to come back to England in the future.

Noriko and I on our last day at RAMM


Mom and Dad at the Jolly Roger Tearooms

The following week my brother arrived in London and we spent a few days there together, before heading to Italy for a week-long trip. With nothing to do the night before he arrived, I treated myself to Kew Gardens, and then a musical at the Aldwych Theater: Top Hat! (for those who know me, I am a huge fan of Fred Astaire movies, which this musical was based on). My brother and I visited the Tower of London, British Museum, Harrod’s, Kensington Gardens and plenty of pubs.

Top Hat at the Aldwych Theater

Harrod’s at night

In Italy, we visited three cities in the north: Verona, Bolzano, Milano. Having spent a semester abroad in Verona in college, we stayed at my former landlady’s house, passing many hours at her kitchen table. In Bolzano we took advantage of the Dolomites, and the fresh mountain air. The locals spoke Italian and German since the town is so close to Austria, and only became a part of Italy after WW1. My favorite part of the trip was our train ride up through the Alps, and spending a few hours in St Moritz, Switzerland. Then half a day in Milan before catching our flight back home. It’s no wonder I was so tired by the time we arrived back in Chicago.

Enrico and Brian may not share a language, but they share soccer.

Enrico and Anna, with my brother and I.

Taken from the train at over 6000 feet.

Milan’s famous Cathedral, where we toured the rooftop as well as the inside.

And after all that excitement, I am happy to be home!

Remembering kindness

Reorganizing some of my files, I came across an article I had written over a year and a half ago, attempting to sum up my study abroad experiences for a writing contest. Having written on the topic of the “kindness of strangers” on more than one occasion, I thought I would share this short, but heart-warming little piece.

The Kindness of Strangers

There are many times in any given day when I think back to my semester spent abroad in Verona, Italy. As most people will tell you who have studied abroad, it is one of the greatest times of their lives, and one of the most rewarding. They are always more than happy to tell you some of their ridiculous stories, and even embarrassing moments. I have a fair share of stories of my own. But those are not the stories I want to share here. What I would rather talk about now are the times when it got hard, when I was down and lonely, wishing that I could just go home. It is at these times that I experienced the kindness of strangers. And so, I have a number of short stories to share, that together paint a picture of a kind and generous world. Although these people are no longer strangers to me, I was a stranger to them, and their kindnesses to me were always more than I expected.

Our group had only been in Verona for a month, a blur of activity and intensive Italian classes. Routine was starting to set in. But in early February my close friend Shannon decided to go on a weekend trip to visit a friend in Spain, and I didn’t know what to do by myself for an entire weekend. I thought it was going to be the worst weekend ever, I felt so lonely. After a long afternoon of Friday classes, and all my classmates talking about their weekend plans, I was soon in a melancholy mood. With nothing else to do, I wandered into a café I had visited once before with Shannon. I asked the bartender for a red wine, and sat down to have a pity party for myself. Except that the bartender Marco recognized me and started talking to me. As I thought about it later, I think he saw I was lonely, and tried his best to cheer me up.  He told me my Italian was good, that I was clever, and introduced me to all of his friends. They invited me to dinner and to a soccer game, and it eventually turned out to be one of my best weekends in Verona.

As the weather began to get warmer, I was planning several trips around Italy and decided I wanted to go to Rome for a weekend for my 21st birthday. My roommate Aline, who is from the Netherlands, felt adventurous enough to accompany me. She is generally a quiet and studious girl like me, but we each have our moments. We got along very well, but this was our first time traveling together. We got an early start on sightseeing Saturday morning and went to the Colosseum (of course), the Roman Circus, the Pantheon, and Castel Sant’Angelo.  As the latter place is right down the street from St. Peter’s Basilica, that was of course our next stop. By this time it was getting close to dinner-time, and the light was beginning to sink behind the colossal structure of the church. As we sat in the piazza admiring the scene, a feeling of homesickness came over me. As I wrote in my journal, “I’m in Italy, I’m sitting in front of St. Peter’s, it’s my 21st birthday, but I really just want to be home with my family. I started to cry and Aline hugged me and just made it ok.” And we sat together watching the people and the pigeons move around us.

I got more accustomed to life in Verona over time, and started to meet more people. On the suggestion of a friend back home, I found a tiny protestant Christian church to attend, just one room of a shop front in a quiet back street. I started going to Sunday services and bible study during the week. I made friends with the people as best as I could, with my limited Italian. One sweet old lady would talk endlessly to me about the weather and her children and grandchildren. Oftentimes I couldn’t understand what she was saying, and so I would just nod politely and she would take that as a sign to keep talking, in her slow, soothing voice, resting her hand on my arm. I got accustomed to the people, and they welcomed me in, but I rarely spoke up since my Italian was so poor. In early April I had both my wallet and my camera stolen from my purse. Without any credit cards or money, I was in a tight spot, and had to cancel a weekend trip I had planned to visit Prague. And so, I went to church on Sunday as usual. When I mentioned to someone that my wallet had been stolen, the pastor gave me almost $250 from the church’s funds in order to tide me over. They expected nothing in return and neither did they ask about it again, although I quietly repaid my debt later. And so I found God in this tiny church.

Of course there were other instances where strangers helped me or befriended me, and enriched my experience of the city, the country and its culture. And each instance touched me in ways that are difficult to describe. These disconnected stories remind me of how the kindness of strangers supported me, and gave me an experience I will take with me the rest of my life.

Day 3: 3 Perfect Days in Verona

Day Three:

On your last day in Verona you intend to soak up the sun as much as possible. After your now usual morning cappuccino, head towards the quietly beautiful Piazza San Zeno, only a brisk ten minute walk.  Turn the corner around Castelvecchio and take the steps to the sidewalk above street-level. Linger to enjoy the beautiful Adige River, and if the sky is clear, glimpse the mountains to the north.IMG_0024

Stop at the tiny grocery store, Fresca Mia, on Via Barbarani and pick up some tasty items for a picnic in the park. Walk your way through a series of mini piazzas until you see the Basilica di San Zeno on your right. Feel free to step inside the church which is named after the patron saint of Verona.  This church is home to a pair of 11th century decorated bronze doors, and the San Zeno Triptych by Renaissance artist Andrea Mantegna.

This side of town is quieter but has an enchantingly local feel, where old men sit at the same outdoor café day after day. Take the short walk towards the city walls, cut through by a modern street and an ancient gatehouse. Walk up into the park to enjoy a view of the city, and the mountains beyond. Now simply part of the city landscape, you’ll find the park occupied by joggers, dog walkers and families. Find a park bench to dive into your picnic lunch, and savor the fresh air. When you’ve had your fill, it’s time to head back to the bustling city center.

You’ve passed by several times, but now you are ready to tackle the Torre dei Lamberti, the tower that dominates the center of town. Full of history, this is the court of the Tribune, and the only Renaissance staircase still remaining in the city. You’ll find it just off of Piazza dei Signori where you can get your picture with the statue of the Italian poet Dante, always recognizable by his overly large nose.

Verona- Venezia- Vittorio Veneto 106Below ground, the history buff can see more ruins of the original foundations around the complex, or peruse the current contemporary art show at the Centro Internazionale di Fotografia. The center exhibits internationally recognized photographers from Italy, the US, and across the world. Just around the corner are the tombs of the Scaligeri, the ruling family in Verona in the 14th century. They became rich making ladders, a symbol which is found in their family crest.

Though the Duomo is Verona’s crown jewel, the quirky Church of Sant’Anastasia is its largest. Under construction during the time of the famous Scaligeri family, the building’s façade was never completed. If the organ player is practicing, you will be blessed with the enormous organ singing a sweet but powerful song.  After all that sightseeing, a siesta is in order, so head back to your hotel for a quiet nap before dinner.

Dinner tonight is at the Antica Bottega del Vin, an upscale restaurant just a few blocks off of Piazza delle Erbe. Take the suggestion of the waiter and pair an excellent bottle of red wine with one of their famous local dishes. Top off your meal with an espresso because the night is still young. Walk off dinner with a stroll down to the river, making your way towards the lively university neighborhood. Just down Via XX Settembre you’ll find the amusingly familiar Campus Pub. With Guinness posters hanging from the walls, and large wooden tables, this feels like a pub straight from England, but don’t let it fool you. The young Italians come here to drink and socialize, barhopping until late in the night.

Excerpt Day 2: Three Perfect Days in Verona

Day Two:

Your second day in Verona dawns rosy on ancient monuments. You are ready to tackle the day after getting your coffee fix at the Cappa Café, a cozy joint with a bohemian feel.

With that jumpstart to your day, you head a few blocks north to Verona’s Duomo. The Romanesque exterior, and a breathtaking expanse of columns and chapels inside are meant to impress, as this is the city’s main cathedral. Light a candle if you like, and take a moment to ponder Titian’s famous Assumption of the Virgin, located in a chapel towards the back of the church.Duomo

A short walk back towards the river and you’ll find Verona’s oldest surviving bridge, Ponte Pietra, simply meaning ‘stone bridge’. An original Roman construction, the bridge was rebuilt by residents even after its destruction during WWII.  A plaque is inscribed with words from Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet in both Italian and English. “There is no world without Verona walls” it reads, a true statement for those who have come to love the dear city.

Crossing the bridge, the Teatro Romano comes into view, a Roman amphitheater home to the Museo Archeologico, built right into the grassy hill. Walking up the steps of the amphitheater, imagine the performances and how it looked 2000 years ago. The rooms inside the museum are crammed full of Roman artifacts, enormous columns and tiny oil lamps alike.

Though it’s time for lunch, you’re still in a Roman frame of mind. Head for a street café near the river on Via Leoni, where you can enjoy a panino, a simple sandwich, in the sunshine. All along this thoroughfare, the ruins of ancient city walls rise up from the middle of the street.giardino

Refreshed and ready for more, the afternoon is full of inspiring views for the camera-happy traveler. Cross the river at the Ponte Navi, and head to the Giardino Giusti for a stroll in a Renaissance garden. Italians are fans of a sophisticated garden with hedges and fountain statues though, admittedly, modern Italians don’t have much more than a balcony flowerbox. Climb up to the higher terrace and admire the multiple towers that dot Verona’s skyline.

castelloAs many locals will agree, the best view of the city can be found from atop the Castel San Pietro. Take the street back north to the river, where you’ll climb the stairs to the left of the theater. Street names aren’t helpful since this same road changes name every block, a phenomenon of Italian city planning. Climb the steps to the castle where friends and lovers sit and chat, perhaps waiting for the sun to sink towards the horizon. Once again, feel the Italian way of life calling for you to slow down.

Do as the Italians do and head back to Piazza delle Erbe for a spritz aperol, an orange colored white wine cooler that is extremely popular before dinnertime. Look around and notice everyone has ordered the same thing. The locals, after all, are creatures of comfort and enjoy the habit of a drink before dinner. Head back to your hotel to rest and get spruced up for tonight.

For a romantic hilltop dinner, visit the classy Piper Bar & Restaurant overlooking the city. Order the Gnocchetti Patate con Scampi for a little seafood paired with Verona’s favorite pasta made from potatoes.  Linger to enjoy the sassy contemporary atmosphere and the twinkling lights of the city below. With a drink list just as long as the menu itself, you’ll be prepped to head to Verona’s hottest nightclub just down the street, Alter-Ego. The young stylish crowd spreads out through several rooms and outdoor patios.  You’ll surely be dancing until the wee hours.

Excerpt: Day 1 of “3 Perfect Days in Verona”

Verona: A Gem off the Beaten Path

Rachel Smith

Verona is a pleasant mix of old Roman history and modern Italian culture, located about halfway between Milan and Venice.  It is a relaxing but vibrant alternative to more conventional destinations, and is easy to reach by train or plane. The historic city of Verona in northern Italy is best known as the home of Romeo and Juliet. Couples and tourists alike can stand on Juliet’s balcony, rub her statue’s breast for luck in love, and scrawl their own names in love graffiti on their way out. But there is far more to Verona than this tourist spectacle.  For a true Italian cultural experience Verona is the place to go.

Day One:

Just off a grand piazza in the heart of Verona’s historic city center stands an unimposing building with quaint green shutters, the Hotel Bologna. Traces of an ancient fresco, and flower bedecked balconies are everything one might expect from an old Italian inn. Start your first day with breakfast in the hotel’s attached Restaurant Rubiani. Sitting at one of the outdoor patio tables with a view of the Roman Arena and a frothy cappuccino in hand, you’ll begin to understand why Italians enjoy a slower pace of life.

spring break 022

You’ve been dying to see it ever since you got here, so walk out into the open air piazza with its crowning jewel, the Roman Arena. At one time, Verona was a major trading city in the Roman Empire, and this stadium was constructed outside what were then the city walls. Today it marks the center of town, or il centro, in the middle of the pedestrian-friendly Piazza Brà.

This is the perfect place for sitting and people watching, an activity Italians take seriously.  There is far more to see in Verona, so when exiting the piazza head up Via Roma towards the river, enjoying the old world cobblestoned streets. Castelvecchio, or the Old Castle, looms before you, a gothic fortress built by Verona’s ruling family in the Middle Ages. A bridge extends out over the River Adige where one can peer between the imposing battlements for a peek at the rushing water below. Right next door is the Arco dei Gavi, a Roman arch now covered in modern graffiti like so many other ancient monuments. Graffiti is an Italian word for a reason.

Back on the main street, meander towards the ancient city gate Porta Borsari, once the entrance to Roman Verona. Around the next corner is restaurant San Matteo, the doorway practically hidden in a small stone courtyard. This former church was converted into a restaurant that now boasts one of the longest pizza menus in town, including the popular quattro stagioni , or four seasons. Each quarter of the pizza has its own ingredients including fresh mozzarella, tomato, artichokes, mushrooms, cooked ham, and black olives. Check out the book-sized menu by the door, since you’ll be returning here for dinner.


Continuing down the main drag past all the high-end shops like Prada and Mariella Burani, you’ll come upon another large square. With an altogether different vibe, Piazza delle Erbe is the hangout for a younger crowd, and also the place to buy your knick knacks and souvenirs. Stop at one of the many outdoor cafes for a light lunch and savor the bustle of people against a backdrop of frescoed walls and ancient stone facades. A column with a lion capital stands at the north end of the square, a symbol of Venetian rule.

Since Romeo and Juliet are this city’s namesakes, the Casa di Giulietta is a tourist’s most obligatory stop in Verona. Entering the gate of the Capulet house, you’ll perhaps be surprised to find the walls covered in love graffiti, full of names and hearts. Inside the small courtyard stands a small statue of Juliet. Get your picture rubbing her breast for good luck in love, or smiling from her stone balcony just above.

Now begins an afternoon of serious shopping. The crowded, pedestrians-only thoroughfare Via Mazzini is the place to see and be seen, and contains Verona’s trendiest shops. And as the city of love there is no end to lingerie stores; Intimissimi is Italy’s answer to Victoria’s Secret. While away the afternoon in high style, being sure to stop for a gelato and shamelessly check out what everyone else is wearing. Take Via Mazzini all the way back to Piazza Bra and drop off your purchases at your hotel.

Italy 003

Dinner tonight at the San Matteo restaurant is an education in what pizza should be. Surprising even yourself, you can manage to eat an entire pizza, and still have room for dessert. The waiter may tempt you to try some limoncello after your meal, a popular lemon flavored liquor made in southern Italy. The after dinner passeggiata, or a walk around town, makes for the perfect end to a delightful meal. A glass of wine in Piazza Bra, and you’ll wish this dreamy night could last forever.